A Dermatologist Told Me the Dos and Don'ts of At-Home Chemical Peels

"I always recommend peels with alpha and beta hydroxy acids. They help keep pores clear, preventing acne and enlarged pores, and also help firm and smooth skin," Gross explains. "Look for peels with multiple acids at lower concentrations as opposed to one acid at a high concentration. This will allow your skin to receive multiple benefits at once and avoid harming the skin."

"For example, lactic acid is very hydrating and helps stimulate ceramide, which is great for the moisture barrier, while salicylic acid is perfect to dissolve oil and unclog pores," he goes on. "Non-abrasive chemical exfoliation helps brighten all skin types without irritation." Gross recommends using the Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peels from his namesake brand each day to keep up with all daily exfoliation needs.

There are at-home chemical peels that claim to be suitable for all skin types, but Gross says it's important to know your skin and do your best to tailor peels to your specific needs. "People with sensitive or dry skin should look for peels with lactic acid, which is fantastic in fortifying your own moisture barrier and won't be as harsh as something like a glycolic, which penetrates more deeply," he says. "You should also be using a peel that is two steps, and in that second step you can look for ingredients proven to soothe sensitive skin, like colloidal oatmeal."

For those with acne-prone skin, Gross suggests peels with beta hydroxy acids. "Salicylic acid helps unclog and reduce the size of pores, he says. "Malic acid is also helpful in eliminating dark spots left by acne. The Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel is the best choice here."

"In general, you are able to use all acids on all skin tones," says Gross. "However, darker skin tones are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. If someone with a darker skin tone is hoping to use a chemical peel to diminish dark spots, they'll want to be more cautious with the acids they're using; mandelic acid will be a safer bet than glycolic, as overexfoliating can lead to that post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation."

If you've ever heard horror stories of people being left with burns, intense peeling, and scarring from performing peels at home, there's a good chance they were using TCA, an intense acid that vigorously exfoliates the skin and causes actual peeling to occur. "You should never use TCA or phenol peels at home. They are simply too strong for at-home use and are only to be done professionally," Gross implores.

"Otherwise, it is not so much about the ingredients as it is the percentage of active ingredients in a peel. I do not believe in super-high concentrations of one acid in a single-step peel, he says. "For example, glycolic acid at a low percentage is safe for at home. But once you increase the percentage, you need to have the peel administered by a licensed professional because it needs to be properly neutralized or you can risk damaging the skin." The moral of the story? Don't assume that more is better. Gross says it's simply a myth that stronger acids will give you better results. "Products that emphasize high levels of acids may cause chemical burns. Never assume that more is better. There is a limit to what is useful, beneficial, or safe," he adds.

If you're looking for a stronger peel that's still safe enough to use at home, try Gross's Clinical Grade Resurfacing Liquid Peel, which is a more advanced treatment you can do up to twice a week that contains added exfoliation from enzymes in addition to its expert acid blend. This one is my personal favorite and, in fact, has been part of my Sunday skincare routine for months now. 

"If you are pregnant, you should always consult your physician about the products that you are using. Additionally, if you're taking Accutane, your skin will likely be more sensitive, so you should consult your doctor about the strength of your at-home peel," Gross advises. But don't worry. Gross has another suggestion if it turns out your doctor advises against using at-home chemical peels for any reason. "Another great at-home treatment would be an LED device. LED light therapy also delivers incredible results in diminishing fine lines and wrinkles and treating acne preventatively," he says. I've been testing out the Spectralite Faceware Pro, and I'm looking forward to seeing if this LED mask makes any discernible differences in my skin.

"While you should always be wearing SPF, it is especially important to do so if you're using acids," says Gross. Surprised? I didn't think so. "After exfoliation, you reveal bright, youthful skin cells that are more susceptible to sun damage." As I always say, sunscreen all the time, no matter what—especially after an acid peel!

If you're a fan of tinted sunscreens, this mineral tinted sunscreen is perfect post–chemical peel. 

This hydrating serum is absolutely heavenly. Aside from its hero ingredient, hyaluronic acid, it contains 10 soothing peptides and NS Phytomoist (a super-moisturizing compound) for a full-spectrum hydration situation. 

Vitamin C is another great active to support brightness and free radical defense on freshly peeled skin. This affordable pick from TruSkin also has vitamin E and HA in it to offer some extra moisture and protection. 

"Peels preps your skin for great absorption of all products that follow after. After your peel, you should apply serums and moisturizers with active ingredients," Gross explains. "The products you apply after a peel will be more efficiently absorbed into skin, giving you the best results." I'm a huge fan of IS Clinical in general, but its Youth Serum with antioxidants, caffeine, peptides, vitamin A, vitamin E, and vitamin C is one of my favorites from the range. It's a luxe oil that nicely seals in all the lovely skincare layered under it.

Customer review: "After just one use I noticed that my skin felt softer and any dry skin had vanished. These peel pads are smooth on your skin and do the trick!"

Customer review: "I love these pads! I only use it once a week, but I can notice a difference in my skin. My skin feels softer and smoother with continued use."

Customer review: "I have suffered from severe acne for nearly 15 years. After two rounds of Accutane, I was certain that I'd never have hydrated, scar-free, or acne-free skin again in my life. During one of the toughest times in my life, this line of products, and specifically this mask in recent months, has improved my skin in ways I thought never possible. I have little to no visible acne scars and little to no red marks. My skin is perfectly hydrated, but not oily, and looks years younger. I've been mistaken many times for being nearly 10 years younger than I am. All the credit goes to Drunk Elephant; these products are fantastic!"

Customer review: "I've used the peel for the last five years and I love it. It's so gentle that I have to remind myself that it's a peel. Over time, my skin has developed a natural radiance."

Customer review: "This is an absolute godsend. I didn't expect much but immediately after rinsing, my skin was smooth, clear, and glowing even on zero sleep. My breakouts, clogged pores, and imperfections decreased considerably. The next day my skin looked even more clear and amazing. It has long-term benefits as well because my skin has been getting better every day even after just one use."

Customer review: "Love this product it really works and has lasting effects. Even after one use your skin feels so soft and glowing."

Customer review: "I am 35 years old and have noticed some 'dullness' in my skin as of late :( I haven't gotten any professional treatments yet as I am trying to hold off until absolutely necessary! While it is a steep price for this jar, I do think the results are worth it! I started off using it once a week to assess my threshold and have since upped it to twice a week. I can definitely tell a difference in my skin as it appears smoother, shinier and some of my dark spots have faded a bit."