The '80s Trend You Feared Is Making a Major Comeback This Spring

bubble hem trend

Photo:

@ellymcgaw

Everywhere we look, the '80s are having a renaissance. From bold maximalist earrings and chunky bangles to nipped-waist blazers and structured tweed jackets, it's hard to outrun the decade's excess aesthetic right now. And while some items have been more readily accepted by the masses, others are still considered shocking news in 2023.

Once such pot-stirring style is bubble hems, and I'm sorry to say it, but they too are about to make a major comeback. We saw the first inklings of their return in the 2023 collections with several bubble-hem skirts and dresses from Khaite and Prada, but for spring 2024, designers went full-force on the voluminous silhouettes, so consider this your official warning: No matter your personal feelings on them, you're going to be seeing a lot more of the balloon-like shapes at the turn of the year.

I don't blame you if you associate the floofy shapes with an awkward middle-school dance or the wardrobe in 13 Going on 30, but I can assure you that the styles coming down the pipeline are much more sophisticated than they are retro. At Schiaparelli and Altuzarra, two-piece skirt sets were given the puffed-up treatment for maximum drama, but at Bally and Bottega Veneta, bubble hems came in the form of softer draping on dresses and skirts. Personally, I love the look of a bubble hem on a minidress with tights and heels for a holiday ensemble, but regardless, I'm sharing all the runway and influencer imagery of the trend so you can see for yourself.

On the runway:

Photo:

Khaite

Khaite S/S 23 was the first time I recall seeing bubble hems in a way that I didn't completely hate. In fact, the soft satin fabric the designer chose for this immediately made the pieces feel approachable, and the sleek styling with minimalist pieces made them look downright chic.

I sourced the Khaite runway skirt in question. You're welcome.

How stunning is this gathered-waist top? It reminds me of the fabric technique used in Schiaparelli's haute couture F/W 23 collection seen below.

On the runway:
schiaparelli couture bubble hem trend

Photo:

Launchmetrics Spotlight/Schiaparelli

While an haute couture collection rarely translates to an everyday wardrobe, I love how this particular look showcases the drama of the '80s silhouette. And who could forget how pregnant Sienna Miller stunned in the look when she wore it on the red carpet at Vogue World: London. 

This opulent red-velvet jacket is the definition of a statement piece.

On Instagram:

Photo:

@_yanyanchan

Riffing on the pillars of balletcore, this combination of a bubble hem and ballet flats is sublime.

To wear with relaxed jeans for a dressed-down take on the trend.

On the runway:
Altuzarra bubble hem trend

Photo:

Launchmetrics Spotlight/Altuzarra

Altuzarra doubled down on the bubble-hem trend, sending out multiple iterations in its S/S 24 show that ranged from this exuberant tube dress to satin skirt sets.

Runway-level looks at a Zara price point.

I plan on wearing this pick with sheer tights and point-toe heels for a fall night at the ballet.

On the runway:

Photo:

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta took a softer approach with this look that features a gathered bubble-hem midi skirt and simple Henley tee.

Emulate the Bottega look above by wearing this skirt from sustainable Scandi label Ninety Percent.

The ribbed-knit tank on this dress offsets the drama of its silk taffeta skirt, making the mini oddly low-key.

On Instagram:

Photo:

@hannastefansson

Wearing bubble hems is all about contrasting their volume with a slim-fitting pair of tights or leggings like this.

This just might be the most wearable bubble hem I've ever seen.

I love the idea of styling this with a nipped-waist blazer so the skirt and cuffs peek out.

On the runway:

Photo:

Bally

Bally's take on bubble hems is decidedly more low-key, combining a gathered minidress and simple riding boots.

If I'm honest, I think about the micro bubble hem on this Jacquemus jacket at least once a week.

On the runway:

Photo:

Aknvas

New York–based label Aknvas showed support for the '80s movement with this striking red minidress in its S/S 24 show.

On Instagram:

Photo:

@himichelleli

When styling a voluminous skirt, keep things streamlined on top with something simple.

Deciding to add to cart has never been easier.

On the runway:

Photo:

MSGM

The way MSGM styled a bubble-hem skirt with a structured blazer is, to me, S/S 24 perfection.

These would look very directional peeking out from underneath a big blazer, per the above styling idea.

I can already hear the compliments.

On the runway:

Photo:

Altuzarra

When you mix '90s minimalism with the trend—like Altuzarra did here for its S/S 24 show—it makes it much more elevated. 

Even a hint of a bubble hem like the under-layer on this Tory Burch skirt goes a long way.

A daytime dress that works for so many occasions.

Gen Zers are styling their bubble hems with athletic sneakers for a cool contrast.