I Just Learned That This Sneaky Ingredient Was Actually Making My Curls Dry AF

It took me a long time and lots of trial and error to find the right products for my thick, dry 3c curls. Naturally, when I was younger, I made the mistake of thinking I could use products labeled for "all hair types" from the drugstore, believing my strands would look just as shiny, sleek, and hydrated as the model on the bottle. Spoiler alert: They didn't. Even now that I'm a beauty editor who tries many different formulas, I find that some products for curls leave my hair feeling drier and more brittle after a few months of use. Frustrated, I decided to do my own research on why this could be happening. If you have curly hair and have experienced something similar, keep reading! I'm sharing a bit about a sneaky and very common ingredient in hair products that may not be working for your curls.

What is dimethicone, and how does it affect curly hair? 

Dimethicone and curly hair

Photo:

@ivycoco23

Before you panic, let me preface this by saying that dimethicone isn't an unsafe or "bad" ingredient, but it could be doing your curls more harm than good. After doing a little of my own research, I discovered that regular use of dimethicone can result in dry and brittle strands over time due to the nature of the ingredient. Dimethicone is a popular silicone used in both skincare and haircare products that creates a barrier and seals in moisture. However, it's not water-soluble, so it doesn't rinse out of your hair with just water, a gentle co-wash, or sulfate-free shampoo. 

This is the issue when it comes to curls. While there are pros to using dimethicone in your routine—like smoother strands, reduced frizz, and heat protection—it can prevent the absorption of water, ultimately drying out the hair in the long run since curls need water to activate and create definition. This isn't to say that this will happen to every single person with curls, but I can say with confidence that this was my issue. It may be yours, too, if you find that your shampoo and conditioner dried out your hair the longer you used it.

I do occasionally still use a hair serum or two with a small amount of dimethicone in it, but I check the ingredient list before putting anything on my hair now. I also make sure to use a clarifying shampoo once a week to help remove any buildup. My hair took a turn for the better once I stopped using products with large amounts of dimethicone. It's healthier, more hydrated, and less tangled than it was previously. If you're still looking for a bit more information on this and personal stories other people have shared, Naturally Curly is another great and helpful resource.

Everyone's hair is different, so if your routine is working for you and contains dimethicone, no need to make changes! This was just my PSA for anyone else struggling with curls that are dry AF who can't figure out what the potential cause could be.

Below, I'm sharing a few of my favorite silicone-free curl products. 

The Best Silicone-Free Products for Curls

This co-wash from Maria Nila is super gentle and designed for curly and coily hair types. It leaves your hair so soft and refreshed. Sometimes, I don't even need to top it with a conditioner—my hair is already hydrated after using it!

This deep treatment mask contains curl-boosting ingredients like shea butter and jojoba oil. It provides just enough hydration without weighing the hair down.

This hydrating spray is great to use between washes to refresh your curls. It contains nourishing ingredients like coconut oil, shea butter, and olive oil.

Mielle's curl cream is rich with super hydrators like glycerin, jojoba, and sweet almond oil. 

When in doubt, create a custom formula! Prose offers you a way to create a custom curl cream (and shampoo or conditioner if you need it) with natural ingredients designed specifically to nourish your hair.

This reparative leave-in conditioner is great for dry, damaged curls. Formulated with coconut oil and organic blueberry extract, it's designed to not only repair damage but also encourage healthy hair growth.

Styling gels can be tricky to use when you have curls or coils. Some of them weigh your hair down and make it sticky while others don't offer enough hold. This one from Curlsmith is both silicone-free and still offers amazing definition.

Color Wow's Curl Wow collection offers some of the best products for curly hair on the market. While a few products in the line do contain silicone, it's important to note that some silicones (like the ones contained in these formulas) can be modified to become water-soluble, making them easier to wash out and less likely to cause buildup or dry out your hair.

I love all Bread Beauty Supply products, but the brand's macadamia oil is one of my favorites. It's great to use between washes to keep my hair hydrated and healthy. I don't need more than a few drops for my super-thick hair.

This curl-defining gel-cream combines the hydrating properties of a cream with the hold of a gel. It also boosts volume, adds shine, and increases curl and coil definition like no other.