What Does It Take to Be a Truly Feminist Fashion Brand?

Today is International Women’s Day. But what does that mean? In short, it’s a worldwide celebration of all women and their achievements, and also a time to shed light on how far we all still can grow to create equity in our society. As a fashion editor, though, I can also tell you that it often equates to a slew of pitches in our inboxes from brands sharing news of initiatives, pledges, and products that all seemingly benefit (often through proceeds of its sales) women everywhere.

So in 2018, when the word feminist—literally spelled out on T-shirts, handbags, etc.—is as ubiquitous as any other major trend sparked from a fashion week runway, can you blame us for being a little skeptical of what it really means to be a feminist fashion brand?

This question sparked a bit of investigation and inspired us to look closer at those brands that have often been associated with supporting women’s rights, championing inclusion, and using feminist phrases or symbols in their designs. However, instead of speaking to the women who founded these brands and whose recognized names appear on the labels, we sought out those who are behind the scenes.

Coming with expertise in design, marketing, customer service, and leadership, the nine women we spoke to are integral members of the teams operating, producing, and doing business that’s not only lucrative but also esteemed within the industry itself. The below are their perspectives on what it means to work for a feminist fashion company—and, for the rest of us, what it ultimately means to support one today and beyond.

As the chief design officer at Tamara Mellon, Tania Spinelli oversees the design and production of the brand’s shoes. She’s been with the company for two and a half years, during which Tamara Mellon has been actively supporting women via creating custom T-shirts for the Women’s March and hosting sales in honor of Equal Pay Day.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Tania Spinelli: Feminism today is about owning your voice, taking responsibility for the life you want to live, and empowering the women around you. Feminism is about equality, but I see it more as what you enable yourself to do, rather than a conversation purely about gender.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

I think the same traits that strong women have apply to strong, feminist brands. Passion, rebellion, innovation are all non-negotiable. Those characteristics are what makes it possible to move past fear and create the type of world you want to live in. Generosity is super important because it means women don’t have to compete with each other to get ahead—we can be kind to each other and have the confidence that comes from knowing there is enough to go around.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

We’re the only luxury shoe brand with a woman’s name on it, and I see that as a radically feminist thing. It means that Tamara fit-tests every design by living in the shoes, not just slipping them on.

As a company run by mostly women, we’re super conscious about how we present the brand. When we do photo shoots, we really think about what we’re saying with the imagery. We’re less interested in showing a glamorous woman doing glamorous things and more interested in having an element of wit and intelligence in our photography.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

It’s interesting. I really believe feminism is a core characteristic that’s baked into our brand and culture. All the things I mentioned above … exist as much inside our office as outside. It’s a testament to how we really walk the walk.

That said, some people may not know exactly what we mean when we say we’re “for women, by women.” It means we create beautiful shoes for women, but also that a heavy majority of our company is female—20 out of 24 employees are women. Our C-level executive team is 80% women. Culturally, this means that we’re living and working in the type of environment Tamara always wanted to create: a place where everyone is listened to and their work recognized.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

We talk a lot internally about what being a feminist brand means, and it’s always a really interesting conversation. We 100% believe that we’re living in a time where brands not only have an opportunity but a responsibility to uphold what they believe in. But we also know that feminism can be used as a buzzword for marketing, and that’s not what we’re about or what we support.

I would say that if you’re a shopper who is interested in supporting feminist brands, you should look at that support as a conversation: How does a brand communicate with you? Are they saying something, or are they selling something? Does that brand show their lifestyle as respectful to your lifestyle as a customer, or are they selling you on an idealized version of something that makes you feel bad about yourself? We’re a luxury shoe brand, but Tamara always says she cares more about the women who wear her shoes than the designs themselves. We’re constantly checking what we’re doing to make sure that we’re presenting the ideals we stand for thoughtfully.

New York brand Rachel Comey has long been recognized as one that promotes diversity and challenges the status quo of what a fashion model looks like and the concept of gender-specific shopping. Rachel Scott is the label’s ready-to-wear designer director and been on board for over three years, specifically working with fabric selection, sketching, draping, fitting, and presenting the collection in formats like New York Fashion Week or in visual assets like lookbooks.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Rachel Scott: That is a very demanding and difficult question to answer since feminism has a rich and complex history. First-wave feminism made advances within the juridical sphere, especially in the suffrage movement, and culminated in the publication in the 1950s of Simone de Beauvoir’s classic and foundational text The Second Sex. Second-wave feminism was greatly influenced by de Beauvoir’s work insofar that the insights of psychoanalytical theory and material conditions threw into question our social relations and the objectifying character of the male gaze and gender norms. There are many offshoots and new considerations today, particularly in trying to expand the question to women and social groups most economically disadvantaged, and optimistically speaking, we may have an opportunity to find some sort of synthesis to confront issues that affect us all.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

Ethical practices within the company and with its partners, particularly in terms of fair treatment of its employees and of those of its partners.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

RS: The power of imagery via the internet today is overt. Although there is always an underlying tension with commodification, the portrayal of archetypes of women to women has an innate political resonance, and as such, it is very important to be attuned to the ways in which beauty and power become dictated by the fashion industry. As a brand, we are always looking to put forth myriad ideas of beauty and power, always challenging the homogeneous idea of beauty that the industry has historically dictated. Not only do we consider the image itself, but also the production of these images. The female gaze is incredibly important for us to try to break free from the objectification of women.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

It is hard to pinpoint a specific example as the company ethos in general is one in which all team members are treated with great dignity and are valued for their unique skills. Rachel’s feminism speaks volumes about the diversity of the people she hires and with the respect and consideration she gives each team member. As a black woman immigrant, I feel proud to be a part of the team.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

This is a tricky one, but I think consumers need to be able to read between the lines as much as possible. A political statement emblazoned across a sweatshirt should be questioned if the images don’t support that statement. We should always strive toward meaning instead of obfuscation.

Embroidered knitwear may seem sweet and demure, but Lingua Franca has been rewriting that script as the brand makes of the custom Time’s Up sweater Connie Britton wore to the Golden Globes this year, as well as a line of resistance pieces that showcase sayings like “I Miss Barack,” “Oprah for Pres,” and “The Future Is Female” whose sales benefit She Should Run. Katherine Khorassani is the brand’s embroidery coordinator who onboards all freelance embroiderers and teaches them the specific stitch and handwriting style used on the famous sweaters.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Katherine Khorassani: Feminism in 2018 has taken on a new role as a movement against our current administration. Due to the election results, many felt that anti-feminist sentiments were vindicated, and as a result, we as a society have a responsibility to backlash and progress forward despite what may be portrayed in the White House. The current wave we are living in, along with advocating for gender equality in the media, the workplace, and society as a whole, is additionally an attempt to heal old election wounds and set a better example.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

A feminist brand is responsible for creating a work environment where everyone’s voices are heard and where there is equal opportunity to learn and grow based on qualifications and not gender bias. Feminist brands also have a responsibility to consumers to create products that actively heighten awareness, rally support, or spread information about the movement.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

I feel proud to work for a company that has donated proceeds to such worthy causes. In particular, I view our partnership with Planned Parenthood as a feminist statement due to their ongoing dedication to women’s reproductive rights, education, and healthcare.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

Lingua Franca wouldn’t be able to operate without our growing team of freelance embroiderers, all of whom are women. I have trained and worked alongside many of them in the office and am proud to see them develop a beautiful new skill and be paid fairly for that work.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

If you want to be an educated consumer, look into the history of the brands you’re supporting. Feminist branding is popular these days, but to find the legitimate ones, you have to gain some knowledge of the production process. I would recommend supporting slow-fashion brands as opposed to mass-market products that can take loopholes in order to cut costs.

Cushnie et Ochs has dressed a long line of feminist women in the past, namely Michelle Obama, Ava DuVernay, and Ashley Graham. And as Madelynn Matichak, the brand’s PR manager, tells us, Cushnie is also proud to share that it collaborates with predominantly female photographers, videographers, and artists, in continued efforts to celebrate and champion the work of women everywhere.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Madelynn Matichak: Feminism in 2018 is about intersectionality—focusing on feminism throughout all genders, sexes, races, and ethnicity. In my opinion, feminism begins with women supporting other women, which is now more important than ever.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

Feminist brands must consider inclusion in every aspect of their business, from the casting of runway shows and lookbooks/campaigns to the celebrities and brand ambassadors they work with and the factories/teams that create and produce the product they sell. I think that on the simplest level, a feminist brand continuously sets forth the intention of hiring, supporting, and fostering female talent. A brand must inherently believe in the ability, strength, and intelligence of a woman as much as it would believe in a man (or more). They place emphasis on the support of female artisans, artists, and of other female businesses and partners.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

Something that I’m particularly proud of is the range of amazing women that we’ve had the opportunity to work with and dress—women who not only come from different backgrounds and are of varying race, size, and age but who also stand for the equality and empowerment of women everywhere. Being just a small part of celebrating these women and their achievements is something that we, as a brand, cherish.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

Something that immediately drew me to Cushnie et Ochs is the fact that it’s a female-owned company—led by Carly Cushnie. It’s a brand that was founded by women, straight out of college, when they were young, inexperienced, and fearless. As they grew up through their 20s and into their early 30s, the brand grew with them. To me, a company led by a strong woman who is both business-savvy and creative is inspiring. Cushnie et Ochs prides itself on hiring and supporting women in every department, and there are many employees who have been with the brand since the beginning.

In addition to the culture the brand has created for its employees, the design process of each collection is feminist in itself. Cushnie et Ochs is founded on the concept of fit. Even with slinky, formfitting silhouettes, every detail has been thought out to support as many shapes, sizes, and skin tones as possible: Can she wear a bra with this? How will it hug her waist? How is it lined? How will this color look against her skin? The design team fits over and over until they’re confident that our woman will be happy—it’s a line designed by women, for women.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

To ensure that the brands you are supporting are feminist, it’s important to have all of the facts. It’s important to know who owns/leads the company, where they produce their collections, and who they have chosen as their brand ambassadors. Look at who they cast in their runway shows or various projects—do you feel they’re supporting diversity and inclusion? You have to make the decision as to whether or not a brand checks all of your feminist boxes, but looking to brands who are female-owned and/or primarily female-dominated is usually a good start.

As a part of Cuyana’s customer experience team for over two years, Eleanor Ritchie speaks to the brand’s customers every day and liaises feedback between them and the internal employees. The brand itself boasts two female founders and has often aligned itself with initiatives to reduce waste and overconsumption, giving back to women in need in the process.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Eleanor Ritchie: Being a feminist in 2018 means believing that all humans are to be held in equal regard and fighting to make sure that is the case. To me, intersectionality is the most important part of modern feminism.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

For a brand that calls itself feminist, it’s important that it speaks to all women, not just a version of the ideal woman, like we do with our Essential Women series. We interview wide swathes of women from all walks of life about what it means to be a Cuyana woman. I also love it when brands acknowledge when they mess up. Everyone makes mistakes, and I hate it when they are swept under the rug. My non-negotiables are basically summed as this: Treat everyone as an equal and have humility!

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

Since Cuyana’s launch, giving back has been a major tenant of our company ethos. Our Lean Closet program encourages women to send clothes they no longer love so we can give them to women in need. Since 2015, we have partnered with H.E.A.R.T., a part of the Violence Intervention Program, to distribute clothing to survivors of domestic abuse and violence in the greater Los Angeles area. Finding the right partner was challenging because it was important the donations aren’t sent to landfill or overseas. (H.E.A.R.T. uses every single item we send them!)

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

I come to work every day to a company founded by two women who have fought hard to hire women in all functional areas. I am surrounded by diverse women who are passionate about having a professional career and balance their families, as well. I’m on the younger end of the company, and there is a spirit of mentorship that I’ve never experienced anywhere else. I’m encouraged to explore my career interests and have managers who foster that personal growth is essential to the culture of Cuyana.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

Look deeper to see who founded the company: Were women hired in the company? Who is on the board? I also always watch for tone—I never want to feel like a company is talking down to me or telling me what feminism should mean to me.

Libby Mattern is not only the production director of size-inclusive swim line Malia Mills but also the founder of Course of Trade, a nonprofit organization created in tandem with the brand to train the next generation of garment manufacturers from inside its Brooklyn headquarters.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Libby Mattern: Feminism boils down to equality on all playing fields. It means being paid fairly for the jobs we do and being treated with the kind of respect every person deserves. It means fighting for a world where an assertive woman is not seen as pushy and being outspoken does not warrant an apology. A world where our bodies are our choice. It means taking one step closer to a world where no one, regardless of gender, race, sexuality, needs to weigh the consequences of remaining quiet versus speaking out against harassment. Feminism is recognizing that as women go, so goes the world. By working together and treating every person as an equal, all boats rise.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

Hire women, inspire women, promote women, pay women, celebrate women, invest in women, vote for women, stand up for women.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

We have so many great community partners: Girls Inc., I Am That Girl, The New York Women’s Foundation, I Am Womankind, Girls Leadership, and Planned Parenthood. We open our stores for use to our community to benefit not just our customers but our neighbors. We are so passionate about using our stores and our reach as a platform for good. We have hosted Carpe Revolution seminars in our stores from coast to coast to teach résumé and interview skills to students in our neighborhoods, with more events planned for this year. Plus, we don’t shy away from having opinions. Our marketing and our messaging are crystal clear: We’re not afraid to tell anyone who will listen exactly what we stand for and why. I find that powerfully refreshing.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

Malia is an advocate for every one of her employees. A few years ago, I came to Malia and her sister and business partner, Carol, with a business plan to open a factory. I had it mapped out—down to the penny—how much I estimated it would take to open a factory and how much business we could generate. Malia and Carol essentially said, “Go for it. See what happens.”

So I did, and then I hit a roadblock. When I tried to hire more sewers in our studio, I simply couldn’t find them. As I started to dig into this, I discovered that over half of the sewing manufacturing workforce in NYC is over the age of 45, and trained sewers simply don’t exist to take their place as they age out of the workforce. My plan evolved, and from there, Course of Trade was born. Three years later, I came back to Malia with a whole new plan—and a 501(c)3 certification to boot. Malia didn’t waste a minute before chiming in with ways to make this dream a reality—and she really has. In our studio, we are training women who need jobs to sew and helping them find jobs in factories in the area. If empowering a woman to help empower other women isn’t feminist, I don’t know what is.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

By vocalizing and calling attention to the issues at play, everyone wins, but make sure that you’re doing your due diligence. Are they truly practicing what they preach? Are they spouting off all the “right” messaging but cutting women off at the knees in the office? Look for the brands that are doing more than just putting on a show. At Malia Mills, we are a no-bullshit kind of feminist brand. Our stores are safe places to try on swimsuits or rock a new look, but we aren’t going to hold your hand. If the suit doesn’t look great, it’s the suit that’s wrong, not you. There is no time for body-shaming, self-deprecating conversations.

As brand marketing manager, Grace Mason says she been working for nearly two years to communicate A.L.C.’s brand story across multiple channels and outlets, including digital, social, and PR. And this of course includes speaking to some select pieces from the Andrea Lieberman-lead line, created specifically to benefit Planned Parenthood.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

For me, feminism in 2018 champions the equality and well-being of women in a manner that is inclusive and considerate of the spectrum of female experiences across race, ethnicity, gender identity, sexuality, class, and ability.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

I think that a brand’s commitment to women’s empowerment and its deep understanding of a female perspective is key to its distinction as a feminist brand—this can be felt through their product, communications, imagery, and actions.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

I’m proud to have our brand’s dedication to women manifest in powerful and tangible ways. For the past two years, we’ve celebrated International Women’s Day with initiatives that benefit nonprofit organizations whose mission it is to support women. Last year we created a special product benefiting Planned Parenthood, and this year we’re collaborating with SoulCycle on a collection the proceeds of which will go to Step Up, an organization that works to empower and foster the academic growth of young women.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

From its foundation by a woman to its current workforce of majority women, A.L.C. has an ethos of feminism and female strength that is woven through the company. I believe that our mission—delivering clothes that make women feel strong, confident, and powerful—aligns with modern feminist ideals.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

A brand’s genuine commitment to women goes beyond slogan tees or a thematic runway show. It can be traced through their creative and financial decisions across all facets of the brand. No brand is perfect, but I think it’s important to appreciate brands that speak authentically and inclusively to women on a continual basis.

At the core of Lemlem is founder (and model) Liya Kebede’s dedicated to her home country of Ethiopia, where all the products are produced and where female craftspeople have been ethically employed to create these unique and special pieces. Eva Jean has been president of the brand for the past six months and is dedicated to working for a brand that benefits undeserved communities and women around the world.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Eva Jean: To me, what it stands for has never changed: a movement that works to advocate for women’s rights on the basis of the equality of the sexes in all aspects of the society. What has changed is that there is a deeper understanding of what feminism really means, and this inspires me. For instance, I think the HeForShe UN campaign is a great example of women and men using their voices together.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

It is imperative for a brand to stand for the same values it publicly conveys. That means we care for our employees and our partners, and we are focused on creating the best opportunities across the board. What is unique about us is that we have made a real commitment to break down barriers for women in Africa.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

I am extremely proud of Lemlem’s values and vision. Our business model was shaped around social impact goals from the very beginning, before “doing good” was particularly fashionable. Of course, making a beautiful product is at the heart of our business, and what makes us really proud is how we have gone about that, by creating hundreds of jobs for artisans in Africa and supporting the improvement of women’s lives in Africa through our foundation. When you buy Lemlem on our site, 5% goes to Lemlem Foundation.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

We are a female-created and a female-run ethical company. We strive to create a positive and creative working environment. For example, we focus on the needs of the working woman and man such as professional development, flexibility, family leave, paid time off, and salary satisfaction. Something I want to highlight is that we are especially proud of our programming in Africa through Lemlem Foundation. For example, we partner with a terrific organization Amref Health Africa, which is training thousands of midwives in East Africa. In 2017, we helped them reach nearly 3000 moms with care.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

It is not easy, but you have to take small steps to do your research and try to learn how the company treats its employees. Look at sustainability and social commitments and you begin to see its true values.

Kate Falcone is the brand manager of Suzanne Rae and can speak to its ability to uphold feminist values through the years, considering she was also one of the clothing and shoes line’s first interns back in 2011. Today she tells us she works to develop creative strategies that assist the brand’s growth, be it through branding, sales, or public relations.

What does feminism mean in 2018?

Kate Falcone: The feminist movement has always been about equal rights for women. In 2018, I think feminism is about equality for all living beings if we are thinking intersectionally. Our liberation is bound to one another; it is necessary to dismantle all systemic oppression in order for the mission of feminism to be realized. The dialogue must always include women of color, trans women, non-binary folks, disabled women, sex workers, and other marginalized voices.

What are some non-negotiable traits of a brand that calls itself feminist?

This is tough because calling oneself a feminist is extremely broad; there are many different agendas, philosophies, tactics, and voices within the movement, and it is often reliant on further elaboration to decipher what being a feminist specifically means for someone.

Non-negotiable traits ultimately come down to ethics and education for me. When using feminist symbols, slogans, or imagery on products, I find it important for that garment to be made ethically. The word feminist on a tee shirt is meaningless if the women sewing the shirt weren’t paid proper wages. I also find it necessary for a company to either donate a portion of profit, time, or resources to a women’s organization or use their platform to educate and raise awareness to feminist causes in conjunction with the use of such slogans/imagery. Otherwise, I find it to be an empty gesture.

What’s something that your company has done publicly that you see as an act of feminism?

Sustainability, social awareness, and feminism have been core aspects of Suzanne Rae’s identity since its inception in 2010. Recently, the brand started utilizing the feminist symbol in special patches and prints on clothing, and a portion of the sales of these garments support WIN (Women in Need), the largest provider of shelter and supportive housing for NYC’s homeless shelters.

It felt particularly meaningful to support an organization Suzanne Rae has volunteered with and taught at for the past few years. I’m proud to work under a designer who is both an idealist and proactive, whose belief in the intersection of fashion and social awareness is genuine and continues to be explored and expanded on.

What has your company done internally that you believe stands behind its feminist views?

When I started as an intern seven years ago, I remember being pleasantly surprised by how non-hierarchical it was. To this day, those working for the brand get thanked by Suzanne for completing a task or finishing up a workday. Communication is intentional, and treatment of each other is extremely fair. While part of this is demeanor, I find these all to be conscious choices made daily that disrupt a patriarchal ideal of the workplace.

Many of us, including Suzanne, have a background in gender studies, which is a privilege, but we tend to have conversations revolving around academia or current feminist issues during lunch or downtime. I think having the ability to express these thoughts openly and honestly, and to use that part of our brains during a workday at a fashion company lend to the feeling of working for a feminist brand.

What’s your advice to consumers who want to support feminist fashion brands? How can we weed through those who use the term as a marketing ploy?

Like anything else, I think it is up to the consumer to do their research to find out if a brand’s feminism aligns with their personal ideals or if it is even legitimate at all. When I first discovered Suzanne Rae, she was the only designer I was aware of to label her endeavor as feminist, which attracted me to work with her, but I did spend the next few weeks reading interviews and researching her to ensure that our perspectives were aligned.

For consumers looking to support a feminist brand, some questions to look out for would be Who is employed by this company? What issues are they outspoken on? Who is represented in their campaigns and lookbook imagery? Who do they collaborate with? How have they made their perspective on feminism clear? What efforts have they made to use fashion as their platform to better the community? How long has their involvement or commitments to such issues been publicized? If this information is unavailable or unclear, I would abstain from making a purchase.

In looking for what qualifies a fashion brand to call itself feminist, the biggest takeaway is that feminism doesn’t just have one definition. In fact, like all other factors that play into your decisions to spend money (for the brand name, for the quality, for the ethical practices, etc.), the decision to support a brand comes down to what values matter most to you.

The above examples are but a few brands who walk the walk not only for the press but, as expressed by their employees, for their internal teams. Should this make you more so inclined to stock your closet full of these designs, so be it.