Cult Status: The It Items That Put These 5 Black-Owned Brands on the Map

What constitutes an It item in fashion? While some might point to celebrity endorsements, sales, or even of Instagram likes, I wouldn't use any of those things as measurements. If you ask me, It items are those pieces that everyone has silently agreed are the ones to know. They're the pieces that, when you see someone wearing them, you automatically know they "get it," kind of like a secret language that we use to communicate our knowledge of what's cool and exciting to us right now.

While there still isn't one universal set of benchmarks for defining an It piece, I have a pretty good idea of a few that have earned the title—five items, to be specific.

When the push for racial equity and "buying Black" came knocking on our doors in the summer of 2020, the designers of color behind countless smaller and emerging brands saw an unprecedented spike in attention—and most importantly, sales—that projected their labels to new levels. Flash-forward nearly three years, and the five names we're sitting down with today have taken that moment in time and run with it, building long-lasting brands out of the success of the It items that put them on people's radar in the first place.

It's not to say that some weren't already creating beautiful bags, jewelry, and clothing well before this moment. Mateo's pearl pieces have been gracing red carpets on the likes of Zendaya and Anne Hathaway since 2016. But for designer Brandon Blackwood, that summer of 2020 saw the meteoric rise of his "End Systemic Racism" bags that the internet went wild for. So regardless of how, each of these five brands have experienced at least one big breakthrough moment that catapulted them from emerging to It status. Sure, you can argue that a single viral moment doesn't ensure longtime success, but if there's one thing I'm certain of, it's that the designers behind these five brands have that special sauce.

Whether it be celebrity-adored jewelry or gender-obliterating basics, scroll to get to know these five Black-owned fashion brands, the buzzy items you might know them for, and the next It pieces they already have up their sleeves.

WHO: Brandon Blackwood, CEO and Founder, Brandon Blackwood

When did you first start to notice your mini trunk bags take off? Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint?

Honestly, I would say once I saw so many people unboxing them throughout social media. It went from a couple a day to easily 30+ new unboxings daily. I would read the comments and saw how much people loved them. The demand kept growing from there.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? How did they come to be? When were they first launched?

I wanted to make a simple everyday bag that was still on-trend and easy to wear. The simple square shape and closure give it a classic feel. Yet the variety in colors and textures really allow people to play around and really match the style to their aesthetic. They first launched in 2018.

Why do you think they resonated with people so well?

I think they resonate with people because there are so many options available, and there's something for everyone. Whether your style is flashy or more neutral, the Mini Kendrick will always match your look.

If you could choose anything to magically become the next It piece, what item would you nominate?

I think the Nia Bag is our next “star” because we've seen our customer react the same way as when I first launched the Kendrick. They love how it just elevates any outfit. The customers are really loving the ease and functionality of the Nia and are just as experimental when buying different colors and textures of that bag, similar to the Kendrick trunk.

WHO: Matthew Harris, Founder and Designer, Mateo

When did you first start to notice your pearl pieces take off? Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint? Any standout celebrities who have worn them?

Pearls have stood the test of time. They are truly magical gems and the only gem that is formed in a living creature under a body of water, each one being one of a kind. They also happen to be my birthstone, so I have a true love for them. 

I would say pearls took off early in my career when I launched my first pearl collection in 2016. Back then, not many designers, brands, or customers were wearing pearls. They had the notion or stigma that pearls were for old ladies and most certainly not for men. We decided to use the pearl in modern jewelry with a chic and minimalistic aesthetic. It was an instant hit! People were looking at the pearl under a different lens, almost revolutionizing it. 

One of the highlights was Anne Hathaway wearing our Pearl Blizzard Mobile earrings on the Ellen DeGeneres show. Zendaya also wore those same statement earrings.

What was the initial inspiration behind them?

My first pearl collection was inspired by two of my favorite artists, Alexander Calder and Wassily Kandinsky. Absolutely adore their work. One Sunday, I was at the Whitney Museum, and I saw a Calder installation entitled "Blizzard," and that's how the first piece was born. Jewelry is wearable art, so for me, it is important to look for inspiration from the greats.

Why do you think they resonated with people so well?

In my opinion, I believe they resonate so well with people due to the fact that each pearl is truly one of a kind. Sure, we can try to match a pearl as best as we can, but each pearl forms with its own unique size, color, and luster. What I also love about pearls is that it looks good with any and everything and for any occasion. That versatility is why pearls continue to be a staple in the jewelry world and with jewelry lovers. Worn my monarchs and maharajas, pearls are still worn and adorn today. 

What is another piece from your line that you’d want people to focus on next?

Another piece or rather another collection I would want people to focus on next is our gemstone collection. Bold and vibrant colored gemstones. Over the past decade, the focus has just been on gold and diamonds. I find that this generation is scared of color and scale.

So yes, I would love to see young people wearing chunky gemstone rings and ears draped in decadent statement earrings. Maybe even wear them casually to run errands or even Trader Joe’s.

WHO: Edvin Thompson, Designer and Creative Director, Theophilio

When did you first start to notice your mesh pieces take off? Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint?

I started to notice the mesh pieces take off when Gabrielle Union wore the Rasta beaded dress on her birthday back in 2020. She looked absolutely stunning on a family tropical vacation.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? How did they come to be?

The initial inspiration behind the mesh pieces are the textiles and fabrications I played with as a kid in Jamaica. My designs fuse nostalgia from my juvenile years in Jamaica with lived experiences in New York City’s progressive culture, making Theophilio a wearable biography.

Why do you think they resonated with people so well? What do you think is so special about them?

I think they are reminiscent of so many things that amplify happiness, joy, and celebrate identity. The mesh pieces are so special because they are a signature to the Theophilio brand’s DNA.

What is another piece from your line that you’d want people to focus on next? If you could choose anything from your line to magically be the next It piece, what item would it be?

I’m really excited about our souvenir tee. We first debuted in last season in September and sent a couple of versions down the runway. So far, we have three colorways: white, black, and brown. I adore how Swarovski crystals breathe life into the design.  The tee is an homage to New York culture, a spinoff of the “I Heart NY” clothing you would get at the souvenir shop.  A large part of the Theophilio brand is embracing New York and the many ways the city has inspired me.

WHO: Nasrin Jean-Baptiste, Stylist and Founder, Petit Kouraj

Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint when you realized your fringe bags were taking off? 

I first noticed my bags taking off early summer 2020, during the middle of lockdown. I remember it very well because I was pregnant with my second daughter, Somi, and super sick at the time. The whole world was on lockdown, and New York was buzzing with the call to action, following the tragic murder of George Floyd. Black Lives Matter and the attention on Black-owned businesses was growing, and I definitely noticed its effects. It was an odd time to have a Black-owned business. I was grateful for the support yet saddened by the circumstances that ignited much of it. With my due date fast approaching, it was like the world and I were both going through a transformative experience. I couldn't have been busier with Petit Kouraj.

When were they first launched? 

I launched in 2019 after a dear friend who owns what would become my PR company showed my first collection. She suggested I launch that summer, so with a little nudge, I did! It was quickly picked up by Moda Operandi, and the ball started rolling from there.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? 

The inspiration started with my background as a fashion stylist. I loved to design custom pieces for my clients and still do. Frankly, I just never found a bag brand that reflected me and had wanted to start a brand of my own. I had always created for other people, and after years working with and for other brands, it was time to create something of my own. I wanted to start a brand with meaning and a soul, yet unique and fun. Which is why I chose to produce the bags in Haiti, in the city of Port Au-Prince, where my parents are from. This has been integral to its inspiration and its namesake, Petit Kouraj meaning little courage in Haitian Creole. It reminds me to have some courage in my daily life even if it’s just a little. 

What do you hope they convey?

A sense of self-expression and joy for life. I've always felt that the movement of fringe and the fun colors are free and happy. I like to think a little bit of that rubs off when you wear it. I hope that people see Petit Kouraj and get inspired to express their individuality, move and travel through life colorfully or tamely but with a sass, to have courage in being themselves at all times.

If you could choose anything to magically become the next It piece, what item would you nominate?

Definitely Les Petit Petit metallic collection for summer nights. They're so easy to wear, a boost of color to an outfit, and versatile with a sterling silver crossbody strap—perfect for a carefree time with a few essentials.

WHO: Kingsley Gbadegesin, Founder and Designer, K.ngsley

When did you first start to notice your asymmetric tanks take off? 

When the girls were living for it when I got to the club.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? 

Feeling like "the" girl and your eternal oats!

What is the meaning or intention behind the pieces? 

TBH, there wasn't any… It was just a feeling.

What is another piece from your line that you’d want people to focus on next?

There is something for everyone, and how you want to present yourself, but I'd be lying if I didn't say I'm obsessed with our Clandestine boots.

Next up: An Homage to the Style Influence of Black TV and Movie Icons